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Flashpacking Wife » Blog Archive » Ao Nang – Part 1

Sunday, April 13th, 2008...10:48 pm

Ao Nang – Part 1

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We’ve been in Ao Nang for 2 weeks today – our longest stay in one place – with no plan to leave anytime soon. We’ve really settled in to living here.

Our wood and bamboo bungalow is simple but very comfortable. It sits about 4 feet off the ground on stilts and we’ve got a great front porch and nice bathroom. We’re next door neighbors with Curtis’s dad Tom and spend a lot of time on our porches visiting, mostly eating fruit and drinking coffee or beer.

Bungalow

 

 

The pool at Green View Village is awesome and we usually have it all to ourselves for our morning and evening swims. We’re surrounded by lush greenery – lots of trees, shrubs and flowers – with majestic limestone cliffs jutting miles high. A Koi pond greets you at the entrance to the open air restaurant (where they serve real coffee. Yeah!)

pool

 

There are some great sidewalk eateries close by. One of our first discoveries was one where all the locals eat. You can choose from a bowl of noodles with different soup/sauce toppings (the green curry is my favorite), fried chicken and plates of rice with chicken. You sit family style beside the Thais with a big bowl of fresh herbs and a plate of different toppings (hard boiled eggs, small dried fish, cucumbers, sprouts and all sorts of other things to add to your soup) in front of you. If you are still hungry after that, they also make great coconut waffles for dessert. This feast can be had for about $3 for two.

We went there 3 days in a row and the ladies got to know us, saying “see you tomorrow” as we were leaving. One evening a Thai family was sitting beside us and the grandma was enjoying chatting to me even though I couldn’t understand a word. Her sons spoke English and asked me a few questions and next thing I knew they were taking our picture. The grandma had a huge smile and was pressing in close beside me for the shot. It wouldn’t be my last photo request….

One day we went on a great tour of 4 islands. Barracuda’s Tours picked us up at our bungalow at 9:00 am and took us to a long tail boat. There were about 30 people and our first stop was Tup Island where we snorkeled. The water was clear and the fish were amazing. I got a little freaked out when I saw a water snake but it didn’t get too close and I swam the opposite way in search of the more Nemo looking fish. I got “chased” by a very curious pink fish and schools of blue and yellow fish were not shy either.

fish

After a great hour there, we went to Chicken Island (it’s name comes from the fact that it looks like a chicken, not because it’s inhabited by them). The snorkeling there was amazing too, this time more because of the coral than the colorful fish.

chicken island

Our next stop was Poda Island. White sand beach with a forest of trees was our lunch spot. Boxed lunches of rice, chicken and veggies and ice cold water followed by a swim and a short walk around the island before we headed for our last destination: Phra Nang Cave (The Princess Bay). This stop had floating long tail “restaurants” where you could purchase fruit shakes and food and a “spirit house” cave where people would worship in front of a small shrine surrounded by penis carvings. Lots of lots of penis carvings.

Princess Cave

The cliff backed isthmus was great for climbing and we watched several people scale the walls. One guy climbed up freestyle – truly amazing to watch.

Our journey ended when we headed back by boat at 3:00 to the mainland and then back home. It was a great day for only $12 each!

Some of the days here slip by with having accomplished nothing more than breakfast and lunch, a swim and a lot of reading (me for pleasure, Curtis for work). We usually go out for dinner with Tom and feast on shared local dishes.

We spent last night at an air-conditioned spa getting foot and leg massages ($7.50 for an hour!) Our calves were killing us as two days before we climbed 1,237 steps to the top of Tiger Cave – a mountain topped Buddha temple. We did this in flip flops in 40 degree heat with no water. I know, I know, what were we thinking? Well obviously we weren’t! For some reason we didn’t realize the enormity of the climb, until we were about ¼ of the way up but by then it was too late. Failure was not an option!

At the top, drenched in sweat, we were rewarded with an amazing view 600 meters above sea level. The Buddha was big and bronze (no surprise there) with lots of colorfully carved “men” holding him up on their backs and the usual Wat suspects like lots of small Buddha’s, incense and old bells. And best of all, there was free water at the top!

Tiger Cave Buddha

Unfortunately, what goes up must come down and unlike the Grouse Grind, there was no gondola here. The journey down obviously wasn’t as gruesome but about half way down our calves started shaking and that continued to get worse the further down we went.

Curtis at Tiger Cave

The 1,237 steps weren’t “regulation sized” steps. Some of them were as tall as 2 or 3 normal steps and almost none of them were deep enough to plant your whole foot. This meant that usually you had only the front half of your foot on a step, relying on your calves to do the heavy lifting.

All pain was forgotten though when close to the bottom we happened upon at least a dozen monkeys. My hand was on the railing when all of a sudden a monkey appeared (sliding down the railing) and when he got to me he kind of swung around over my hand.

monkey

In the parking lot there were signs everywhere, “Beware that monkeys steal your belongings”. We thought that was cute until we witnessed the thefts.

These monkeys were very aggressive if you had any food. They stole a bag of chips from one person who had a grocery bag of water and snacks. Okay, so everyone laughed at that. But then two of the monkeys actually pursued and jumped up at a girl who was hiding her snack under her armpit. If that had been me I would have surrendered the goods but she held on tight and they eventually gave up.

When they weren’t thieving, they were busy sliding down railings, swinging from trees and telephone wires, sitting relaxing within a foot or two of the people passing by and, also, humping. The humping was kind of sick to watch, mostly because the male had his teeth bared in a very scary and smug “grin”. It didn’t last too long, not more than a minute, before they were on their way and up to some other shenanigans.

There were baby monkeys right up to old man looking ones, some of them actually had grey “beards”.

I sat right next to one of the calm monkeys and got to examine his hands and feet close up. I think he was doing the same to me. His feet had a very long thumb like big toe which he used to grab onto things but his hands only had fingers. His “thumb” was only about an inch long. After he got bored of me, he dashed off and used his tail to help swing himself along the telephone wires.

Descending the final 20 stairs, we were bummed that our camera battery had died capturing the monkeys because we saw a heavily tattooed monk talking on his cell phone. Not a sight you see every day!

Coming up: Elephant trekking, the seedy side of nightlife and the Songkhran Festival (celebration of the Thai New Year which is a full day, full-on water war in the streets).

3 Comments

  • Thanks for the update!

    You’ll be happy to hear we got snow last night. I had to sweep it off my patio furniture… Sounds a bit warmer where you are.

    Keep the news coming!

    Ric

  • WOW!! Loving the blog!
    Great to see you two so happy and loving traveling.
    Elephants look nice.. watch out for monkeys!
    The tulips are out. Its pouring rain but warming up here. Miss you guys!

  • Nice blog post – I found your site through Google.

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